A small history of watches and several advices for buying the perfect watch. Black Bay P01, 42mm satin-finish steel case, brown leather, rubber and steel hybrid strap. Based on a 1967 prototype watch for US Navy divers codenamed the “Commando” which was not accepted into service, Tudor has now raided its archives to expand its ultra-successful Black Bay range with this unusual tool watch based upon that blueprint. Uniquely built for the world aquatic where underwater and surface exploration merge, the hefty P01 is rated waterproof to 200m while its bi-directional bezel is marked off in hours for navigating sailors to time their chart courses. The crown being set lower at 4 o’clock offers it protection from the rough stuff under or above the waves, but the watch’s most notable feature is the hinged end link system on the leather-rubber strap which locks into the bezel’s teeth to prevent accidental movement from bashes and knocks. If extreme water sports are your thing, this is your watch.
Let’s move on to the under 1000 USD category. The latest iteration of Orient’s beloved, mid-century-style dress watch. The domed dial now comes in an excellent slate-gray colorway and features rose gold accents. The watch also gets an updated suede strap. Ticking underneath is an automatic movement from Orient featuring hand-winding and hacking seconds. If you want excellent modern design in a watch, you don’t need to pay much, fortunately. Braun’s BN0211 has won both an iF and a Red Dot award for its minimal, stealthy aesthetic. A yellow seconds hand pops against a stealthy black dial and sleek black case, and the watch comes mounted on a comfortable stainless steel mesh bracelet. With few exceptions, Timex abandoned mechanical movements in favor of digital and quartz movements years ago. That’s exactly why Timex’s reissue of the famed Marlin is so exciting. It’s now available with an automatic movement underneath, and if that weren’t enough, it comes with a sleek case, dial, and strap design that truly look like they were plucked from the 1960s.
Certina, founded in Grenchen, Switzerland in 1888, has always been a rather low-key brand. You may not know, but they were innovators in shock protection and water resistance, which is nearly weapons-grade on this watch. The rotating ceramic diving bezel on this 41mm beauty, usually a hallmark of much more expensive pieces, is scratch resistant and nearly indestructible, and the handsome strap features a deployment clasp. Shinola watches, assembled in Detroit, have sparked a renaissance in the Motor City and for American watch brands in general. One of their latest editions of their most popular design, the Runwell, is a subtle version of what can be a busy style. This is destined to become a classic design that will no doubt age well with it’s stainless steel case and durable leather strap. With a clean ivory-colored face and luminous hands, wearing this watch makes a statement that you value good design, but don’t need an overly expensive timepiece to speak for you.
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